Coconut Flooring eco friendly product
COCONUT WOOD INSTALLATION & MAINTENANCE INSTRUCTIONS (4 Pages)
PLEASE READ ENTIRE CONTENTS BEFORE INSTALLING
STOP: PLEASE CAREFULLY EXAMINE FLOORING FOR COLOR, FINISH,
QUALITY AND STYLE BEFORE INSTALLING. IF THIS MATERIAL IS NOT
ACCEPTABLE, CONTACT YOUR REPRESENTATIVE IMMEDIATELY. We will not
assume responsibility for installation/removal costs after this material has been
permanently installed. Allow the COCONUT WOOD to acclimate for 7-10 days before installation.
RESPONSIBILITY OF THE OWNER / PROFESSIONAL INSTALLER
COCONUT WOOD floors are a product of nature, and therefore, are not a perfect material. Coconut
Flooring is manufactured to comply with accepted industry standards,
which permits a grading variance not to exceed industry standards for non-select flooring. The
installer/owner of our coconut wood floor is responsible for the final inspection as far as the grade,
manufacture, and the factory finish. Reasonable selectivity must be used, and pieces with glaring
defects, whatever the cause, should be held out or cut off. The use of filler or putty during
installation to enhance the appearance of the floor is an industry-accepted procedure. Five to
ten-percent waste must be added to the actual footage needed as an allowance for cutting and
grading.
If an individual piece is doubtful as to the grade, manufacture, or finish, the installer should not
use the piece. If a piece is not used due to this, Coconut Wood Flooring liability is limited
to replacing defective material only, labor costs not included. If proper procedures are not
followed, any guarantee that may cover this product may be jeopardized. As with any hardwood
flooring, it is highly advised that a professional do the installation.
RECOMMENDED AREAS
Coconut Wood flooring is recommended for on or above grade installation only.
STORAGE AND HANDLING
Please handle, transport, and unload the flooring with care. The flooring should be stored in a dry
place, with at least a four-inch air space under cartons. The flooring should only be delivered after
the building has been closed in with windows and doors in place, and after cement work,
plastering and all other materials are thoroughly dry. Coconut Wood Flooring
should be unpacked and acclimated between 7-10 days in the environment in which is expected
to perform to allow for proper installation.
TOOLS FOR INSTALLATION:
Table saw, jig saw, band saw or circular saw
Chalk line
Tape measure
Nail set
Hammer
Tapping block
Recommended trowel for adhesive applications
For nail down, a power nail model 50P Pneumatic nailer, Model 50 M Manual nailer with 18 gage
1 1/2” power cleats or the Stanley Bostitch M-3 pneumatic nail gun with 1 ½ “ staples or a Porta-
Nailer Model 402 or comparable product.
CAUTION: USE OF THE PROPER NAIL GUN OR STAPLER AS WELL AS STAPLES AND
CLEATS IS CRUCIAL. IMPROPER TROWEL SIZE MAY CAUSE FLOORING TO FAIL. BFH IS
NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY DAMAGE CAUSED BY USING THE IMPROPER TOOLS.
ACCEPTABLE SUBFLOORS
The sub-floors must be on or above grade & structurally sound. Coconut Wood Flooring can be installed
over the following sub-floors:
- Concrete - Existing Wood Floors - Plywood (at least 3\4” thick) - Sheet vinyl - Vinyl tile
- 5 Ply Sheathing Grade
******see specific instructions for installing over radiant heat subfloors******
SUBFLOORING REQUIREMENTS:
Concrete: New concrete should be cured at least 60 days or more, depending on slab thickness,
moisture content and other environmental conditions. Floor must be dry, clean, smooth, and level
to within 3/16” deviation per 10 feet radius. Moisture test the concrete before installing the
flooring. First, inspect for any wetness at the base of the drywall, or for visible signs of moisture
on the concrete. Second, test for moisture. Using polyfilm, tape a 2’ X 2’ square to the slab in 3
or 4 locations (more if the area is large) and, if practical, place a lamp on the polyfilm for 24
hours. The presence of moisture is certain if the slab is discolored (the polyfilm is cloudy) and
especially if there are water droplets on the underside. Calcium Chloride tests are also available
that will give instant readings. The acceptable moisture limit for the concrete is a maximum of 3
pounds per thousand square feet.
MOISTURE: Coconut Wood Flooring warranty will cover a one-time replacement for
most moisture related issues when a vinyl sheet is installed as per the vinyl sheet
manufacturer’s installation instructions. Allow the adhesive to thoroughly cure before
scuffing the vinyl and installing the bamboo flooring. Please read the adhesive container
for additional information.
If any chemical is used to seal or cure slabs this may create a barrier against the adhesive. An
easy test to check if any agent is used on the concrete is to drop water on the concrete surface,
if it beads rather than soaking into the slab, suspect a sealer was used and plan to remove it.
Painted concrete and oil slicks should also be removed.
Cleaning: All concrete surfaces should be scoured with 3 ½” open grit paper to remove any dirt
or surface contamination such as paint, grease, sealers, oil, waxes, or sweeping compounds.
Adhesive installation should not be used over any of these substances. Prior to installation it is
necessary to sweep, vacuum and possibly etch the concrete if needed.
Smooth and level: All high spots should be removed with a grinder, and low spots filled with a
good quality Portland cement patch mix. Allow adequate curing time prior to starting installation.
Do not install over concrete that has a compressive strength of less than 3000-PSI. Do not install
over lightweight concrete.
Plywood, Solid Lumber, or Multi Layered Products: Plywood sub-floors should be at least ¾”
thick. There is a wide variety of wood available in many grades and qualities, gluing and nailing is
recommended with all sub-floors. All under-lament panels should be spaced 1/8” to ensure
adequate expansions space. Re-nail old sub-floors where necessary. Sand off any high edges
to level the sub-floor to within 3/16” in a 10 foot radius. Over old wood floors, apply ¼” – 3/8”
plywood with proper glue and screw attachment. Screw every 6” to avoid squeaking.
Moisture Test: Before installing over a wooden sub-floor, check it for moisture using a Delmhorst
J-4 equivalent or any qualified commercial moisture meter. The moisture difference between the
wood sub-floor and the bamboo flooring should be no more than 4%. Plywood must be kiln dried
and not exceed a moisture level of 12%.
Sheet Vinyl and Vinyl Tile: Make sure that all tiles or sheet goods are firmly bonded to the subfloor.
If these materials are poorly bonded, remove them and also remove all residues off the
flooring adhesive. Remove all traces of wax by rough sanding. Do not glue over heavily
cushioned sheet goods or rubber tile.
CAUTION: SANDING OR REMOVING TILE FLOORING THAT CONTAINS ASBESTOS IS A
HEALTH HAZZARD. IF THERE IS ANY DOUBT CONCERNING THE CONTENTS, SEEK
PROFESSIONAL ADVICE. ASBESTOS HAS BEEN LABELED A CARCINOGEN.
Ceramic Tile: Make sure all tiles are firmly bonded to the sub-floor. If any tiles are poorly
bonded, re-adhere them or remove them and all adhesive residue or mortar. Rough up the
surface of the tiles with a terrazzo grinder or 3 ½ open grit sandpaper to ensure a good
mechanical bond. All powder created by grinding or sanding must be removed by cleaning with
water. Allow the tile to dry thoroughly before spreading adhesive.
PRE-INSTALLATION PREPARATIONS
As part of the sub-floor preparation, remove all existing base molding, shoe molding or doorway
thresholds. Use a razor knife to score along the top edge of the base molding BEFORE removal
to prevent tearing of paint, drywall, or wall coverings. These items can be replaced after
installation is complete to cover any cut edges or gaps between vertical surfaces and flooring. All
door casing should be undercut to avoid difficult scribe cuts. This can easily be done with a jamb
saw or by laying a piece of bamboo flooring on the sub-floor as depth guide for your handsaw.
VENTILATION AND CRAWL SPACES
Proper air circulation is important to prevent moisture build up, especially in homes with a crawl
space. Vents should be open year round. A minimum of two vents is necessary with the
combined square footage of both vents equaling at least 1 ½% of the first floor square footage.
Check to make sure that there is no standing water or moisture at the soil moisture level. All soil
should be covered with 6 mil. polyethylene to prevent moisture from migrating into the wood
flooring.
LAYING OUT WORKING LINES
Snap a chalk line to length of the room at a point which is a multiple of the width of the flooring,
plus ½” to compensate for the variations in the wall. The bamboo flooring requires a starting line
to be a multiple of 3 5/8” plus ½”. A good starting line would generally be 36 ¾” from the starting
wall. This starting line varies; depending upon the tool used when mechanically fastened. For
example, the 36 ¾” line will become the working area with adhesive applications and will be filled
after the balance of the floor has been installed. Other adhesives may require different
application procedures.
NOTE: Like any other wood flooring, bamboo flooring has natural color variations from piece to
piece, it’s important to lay out the flooring to assure an attractive blend of color across the room.
Lay out ahead of the installer (also know as “racking”). Begin laying out the flooring from the end
of the focal point.
ADHESIVE APPLICATIONS:
Adhesive: Bostiks (B.E.S.T) or (BST) is the recommended adhesive, however other premium
quality hardwood flooring adhesives will accomplish the same results. 1/4” X 1/4” X 1/4” square
notched is the recommended flooring trowel.
Important instructions for creating a random effect: To avoid creating a pattern in the floor, it
is necessary to begin installation using starter boards. To create a starter board, cut the board at
2/3 the length. Start with a full board, then install the 2/3 length, and then install the 1/3 length as
starter boards. This will start the first three rows. Continue the process of cutting starter boards
at various lengths intermingling with the full-length units to complete the installation of the flooring
keeping joints at least 6” Apart. Cuts made at the opposite wall may be used for starter boards.
After installing approximately 3 feet, use 3M blue tape at 3’ Intervals to hold the planks firmly
together.
INSTALLATION USING THE NAIL DOWN METHOD:
1. Snap a chalk line parallel to the starter wall. This line should be at least 4 3/8” from the
wall, assuming that the wall is straight. Adjust the line as necessary to allow for
clearance and for wall deviation.
2. Place the groove side of the plank next to the wall with the edge of the tongue lined up
with the chalk line.
3. Use 1” finish nails or appropriate adhesive to attach the planks to the floor. The nails
should be placed ½” from the edge and 8” to 10” apart, pre drilling may be necessary.
The number that is to be blind nailed is controlled by the clearance of the nailing
machine. Pneumatic machines need no pre-drilling. Countersink and fill as necessary.
4. Glue and blind nail (nail every 6” - 8”) the first rows , pre-drilling may be necessary. The
number of nails for blind nailing is controlled by the clearance of the fastening machine.
5. When finished, cover the perimeter spaces with wall moldings and install bamboo nosing
and reducer strips.
FINISHING SUGGESTIONS (UNFINISHED FLOORING)
There is a variety of water based durable polyurethane finishes to choose from. One sealer coat
for proper adhesion followed by 1 or 2 top coats for maximum durability. Using a water-based
polyurethane will minimize odor during installation. Two such water based polyurethane products
are Basic Coatings by Street Shoe and Easy Street or Bona Kemi’s Traffic.
MAINTENANCE
Proper maintenance procedures play an important role in the upkeep of all floors. A maintained
floor increases the lasting beauty of your floor and makes for a satisfied customer. For stubborn
spots, use a urethane floor cleaner, ammonia and water or a citrus-based floor cleaner (use any
liquid cleaner sparingly and do not apply the cleaner directly on the floor). It is also
recommended not to put down area rugs or throw rugs for approximately one month after
installation to prevent inconsistent coloration due to inconsistent lighting exposure.
• Every floor, including bamboo, must be swept with a soft bristle broom (the Swifter is highly
recommended and effective) daily or as often as necessary and/or mopped (slightly damp) if
necessary. Walking on gritty, dirty floors is the fastest way to wear the urethane finish.
• Exterior entrance mats should be used to capture most of the harmful dirt.
• Keep shoe heals in good upkeep; any unprotected shoe bottoms will dent the floor.
• Make sure protector felt pads are placed on the bottom of furniture legs.
Tips for a Successful Installation
1. Read all instructions first: Get all your questions answered before you start installing the floor.
2. Amount of flooring needed: Buy enough flooring to equal 105% of the square footage of your
room, for cutting allowance.
3. Before installing let the flooring sit in the room for 7 to 10 days to acclimate to temperature
and moisture. Run air conditioning or heat as normal.
4. Be aware of moisture problems: Moisture can ruin any floor. Always look out for potential
moisture problems, especially in basements.
5. Checking for moisture: Tape a 2’ X 2’ section of clear plastic sheeting to sub-floor, forming an
airtight seal. If discoloration or condensation appears on the underside of the plastic after 24
hours, there is moisture coming from the floor.
6. Dealing with moisture before installation: If you have or suspect moisture problems, don’t
install your floor yet. Contact a professional flooring installer to improve the sub-floor to an
acceptable level of moisture.
7. It is highly recommended that the installer lay out all the flooring before installation in order to
visually inspect the product for any abnormal color variances.
8. Room / entryway preparation: Undercut door casings are much better than trying to scribe the
flooring to fit there.
9. Leave expansion gaps: Leave 1/2” space at each wall for expansion of wood. Base moldings
will cover this gap. Leave an additional 1/16” for every 10’ for rooms exceeding 25’ and
larger.
10. Tapping block: You can use a trimmed piece of flooring for this, or buy a pre-made tapping
block. NEVER HIT FLOORING DIRECTLY AND BE CAREFUL NOT TO FRACTURE FLOOR
EDGES.
Radiant Floors
Radiant floors installation provides for the addition of a "floating" underlayment system.
This system consists of two layers of 1/2 inch plywood that are laid at ninety degrees to each
other with staggered seams. They are attached by gluing and screwing the two layers
together with a urethane adhesive and screws that are placed at 10 inch spacing to each other
horizontally and vertically. This 1 inch thick diaphragm should cover the entire floor surface
over which Bamboo Flooring Hawaii’s floor is to be applied. It is not attached to the
subfloor, but allowed to "float" over it with a 3/4 inch gap around the perimeter. The underlayment
is then treated as a normal sub floor and the planks may be nailed, or glued and
nailed as described above. Caution should be taken if nailing into this 1 inch diaphragm to
prevent penetration of nails beneath the bottom surface of the underlayment. Use of 1-1/4
inch finish nails for nailing will prevent penetration of bottom surface.
The National Wood Flooring Association (NWFA) recommends that an outside thermostat
be installed to minimize the effect that rapid changes in temperature will have on the floor.
Radiant systems work most effectively with any wood flooring if the heating process is
gradual, based on small, incremental increases in relation to the outside temperature. Also
recommended is a 6-8 mil polyethylene vapor barrier installation over slab radiant heat
systems. Tape all seams to be sure barrier is tight. To protect the barrier from rips, some
contractors lay 1/16" (1.5625mm) thick foam sheeting over the vapor barrier. When the slab
has cured, turn the heat on, regardless of season, and leave it on for at least 5-6 days before
installation of the flooring. A radiant floor should not produce temperatures over 85 degrees
Fahrenheit. Some flooring installers advise laying the flooring over the radiant heating
system for 30 days prior to installation to acclimatize the flooring. The radiant heat system
should remain in operation after installation.
It should be noted that any wood flooring, as well as coconut flooring, will expand and
contract due to temperature changes. The maximum difference in moisture content between
the sub-floor and the flooring material should be no more than 2 percent. The amount of
movement depends upon the temperature, moisture content of the flooring and sub-flooring,
and the dimensional stability of the material. Gaps in the floor may come and go seasonally
or due to temperature changes.
According to the NWFA, the following installation systems can be used successfully over
radiant heat: Double plywood floating, direct nail to a sub floor, G direct nail to sleepers,
Single layer of plywood on sleepers.
We recommend using an installer who has experience and is a member of the Radiant Panel
Association. Please refer to the Radiant Panel Association web site at www.rpa-info.com for
additional information on radiant heat.
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